Quick and Easy Assembly

The Patented Dovetail Design

All cabinet components slide together without force or effort because of Slide-Lok’s patented Dovetail assembly system. Assembling your Slide-Lok garage cabinets is quick and easy.

Click here to watch Bob Vila's segment on assemblying and installing our cabinets!

Installation

Professional Installation Available

Your local Authorized Slide-Lok Dealer will be happy to assist you with installation of your Slide-Lok garage storage solution. Click here to locate your local Slide-Lok Garage Interiors & Storage Cabinets dealer.

Perfect for the Do-it-yourselfers

If you should decide to assemble your Slide-Lok Garage Cabinets yourself, each Slide-Lok garage storage solution comes with the hardware needed for assembly and installation and is accompanied by detailed assembly instructions. The Slide-Lok garage storage solution is easy to assemble and install because of our patented Dovetail assembly system. All components slide together without force or effort.

All of our garage cabinets Feature:

• Precut and Finished Components
• Pre-drilled for Adjustable Shelving and Doors
• Dovetail Construction Throughout Cabinets and Drawers
• Fully Adjustable Legs for Easy Leveling
• 6 Way Adjustable Concealed Hinges
• Easy Assembly and Installation

Assembly Tips

Please read the enclosed directions a few times. All the cabinets assemble in the same order.

When applying glue to the edges, it is a good idea to leave about four inches of unglued material so that when you slide the pieces together the glue does not "glob out". Glue ALL joints, as the video shows them gluing one only and forgetting the others.

When installing the interior corner braces, I have found it best to attach the brace to the side first, and then the face frame. BE CAREFULL when you screw them in, as too much pressure can create a gap between the side and the face frame. If you notice a gap has been created, simply unscrew the corner brace and re do in a slightly different position.

If you have a brad nail gun, use one inch 18 gauge wire brads to tack the sides to the face frame, and to tack the sides to the top and bottoms, and to tack the nailing rails to the sides and top and bottom. If you are not nailing, put the cabinet in a level place and allow glue to dry. Make sure the cabinet is square and the joints are all secure before letting the glue dry.

After the cabinets are dry, use installation tips to attach cabinets to the wall.

Put the shelves in before putting the doors on. You can do them after but access is easier now. When locating the shelves, put a screw into the center of the clip and into the sides of the cabinet, then after positioning the shelf, secure the shelf but screwing up through the bottom of the clip into the shelve. Be sure to push in on the sides of the rear of the cabinets when securing the shelf, as this will help add rigidity to the cabinet.

Add doors; add bumpers in the extreme corners of the doors (they must bump against the face plate). Adjust doors to be level, even and adjust the gap in the middle.

Now shim the rear of the cabinets if necessary to insure that the doors will remain closing properly when the cabinet is screwed permanently to the wall studs. If the walls are out of plumb, you will notice the doors don't quite close properly unless shimmed.

Installation Tips

Build all cabinets for "section" you are ready to install.

If you are putting backs on the cabinets, be sure that the back material is NOT installed
higher than the top edge of the rear of the cabinet. If anything, leave a 1/8 inch margin.
The reason is if the backing material is higher than the rear top of the cabinet, then the
stackable cabinet you put on top will not sit flush on the bottom cabinet.

Leave the doors off and shelves out for now.

Place the first cabinet on left side, where you want it. Adjust the legs so that the rear of
the cabinet sits above the concrete stem wall, if any. Push it flush against wall, and
using a level make sure the very bottom of the front of the cabinet is perfectly level.
Screw the legs in or out to level, and add extensions to the legs if you are above five
inches in height. Locate the studs in your walls, generally 16" on center. Make sure
the cabinet is level in front, on the side, and vertical. Screw a four inch screw through
the nailer and into the wall, snuggling the cabinet to the wall. Do this on the bottom
nailer only. Try to position the cabinet so you will hit two studs in this first cabinet, as
that will make it more secure and hold it level better. The most important thing is to
only secure the bottom of the cabinet to the wall, and have it level in all directions.

Next, set the next cabinet to the right of the installed one, and adjust the legs on this one
until the cabinet sides match. Run your finger on the joint to make sure they are flush on
the bottom where they meet. Now make sure this cabinet is level, placing a level on the
bottom of the face frame (in front of the legs). When it is level, it should butt up against
the first cabinet from top to bottom. Using the short dark screws, just inside the face
frame, screw the cabinets together so that the face frames are together, tight, flush and
look almost like one piece of wood. Place a screw about every 14 inches, and only
tighten until the face frames butts together, don't over do it.
Now screw the bottom of this cabinet to the wall making sure it is level front to back.
The rear of the cabinets will not butt together, and you only screw the fronts together to
get a smooth uniform look.

Continue to work to the right, keeping the bottoms level and screwing the face frames
together.

Now you are ready to add any stackable. Put the little dowels in the holes (pre drilled) in
the top of the face frames, and set the stackable on top of the bottom cabinet. There is a
slight amount of play, so you can push/pull etc to get the top one to lay perfectly on the
bottom one. Tie all the face frames together from left to right with the short screws and
DON'T fasten any of the cabinets to the wall yet. The idea here is to have all the front
face frames become one giant cabinet, and if you fasten them to the wall it is impossible
to get all the face frames flush and smooth.